You car’s clutch is an integral part of the engine, it is definitely as must that they should be taken cared of and maintained for them to yield top of the line performance.
As a responsible driver and car owner, you should not wait for a clutch to slip before doing something. Clutch pedal free play should have the measurements of 3/4 to 1 1/2 inches. Any excess in the measure implies something is wrong. This eventually causes grinding and damage to the transmission. Any shortage in the measure implies there is malfunctioning in the clutch disc and throw out bearing. It is better to refer to the repair manual if your car has a conventional clutch linkage to know the way to turn the adjuster to reset the clearance. It is further advised to lubricate the metal pivots of the clutch linkage with chassis grease. These are the plastic parts with silicone grease.
Several clutches are self adjusting. But they have tooth-panel plastic adjusters that should periodically be lubed (on the pivot and the teeth) with silicone grease. Most self-adjusting clutches need periodical lifting of the clutch pedal up an inch or so to do the adjusting.
Some hydraulic clutches require topping up of fluid in the master cylinder, and perhaps even bleeding other than a mechanical rod adjustment. When changing the brake fluid, replace the hydraulics fluid in the clutch system.
Since clutches are prone to routine beatings, it is essential to have a maintenance guide to clutch checking. The owner’s manual provides you sufficient information on maintaining your car’s clutches. This will also tell you if your car can use other brands of clutches such as a Centerforce clutch. But if in case you find it time consuming to scan the pages of your manual, you may follow these tips.
First, look under the hood. Start the checking by either draining the engine oil, or laying the bike on its side. Removing the allen screw holding it in place by dropping the rear brake pedal. Carefully not damaging the gasket, remove the clutch cover bolts and pop the clutch cover off.
Then, this step is to be followed by the removal of the center clutch screws and springs. This step allows you to remove the pressure plate and bring in all the clutch fibers and drive plates.
Inspecting the clutch fibers and drive plates is the next step. Replace the plates if they are black and visibly shot. Take note that the steel drive plates can deflect when overheated.
Next is to inspect the clutch basket for notches on the sides of the tangs. See to it that the basket is supple.
The next thing to do is to check the inner clutch for notches on the sides of the drive spines. Replace the inner clutch if the drive spines are severely notched.
In case either the clutch basket or the inner clutches are severely damaged, they need to be replaced. If this is so, then it is required to remove the center nut from the transmission shaft which is holding the inner clutch in place. To achieve best result in removing this nut, use an impact wrench.
You are now ready to assemble the clutch. Do this by putting first the basket on the shaft. There are 2 to 3 gears that have to line up with the back of the clutch basket. Make sure everything meshes and the basket drops all the way onto the shaft. The next to be assembled is the spliced washer. This is to be followed by the inner clutch hub. The retainer washer comes next, and finally the retainer nut.
In oil, soak in the new clutch plates. Install them into the clutch. Remember to always start with a fiber, and then alternate steel, until you end with the last fiber. The clutch plates should drift up to about the same height as the top of the clutch basket.
In the end of the transmission shaft, return the lifting post to its proper location. Before installing the clutch springs and bolts, install first the pressure plate.
Install the clutch cover, and finally the brake pedal.
Maintaining a clutch yields a complexity of benefits that ensures good riding and driving. Make sure it’s part of your routine.
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